GINKO: The Top of Cleveland’s Sushi Scene
Visually exciting space filled with loud rock music renders a delectable experience dynamic.Sushi geeks expecting a tranquil setting in which to meditate over stunningly fresh raw fish and vinegared rice are in the wrong spot at Ginko, a modern and colorful eatery. To be sure, the fish and rice here are worthy of contemplation – if only the rock music blaring from the speakers would allow it. Instead, count on being lifted to a higher plane by righteously prepared maki and nigiri featuring, for example, fresh sweet scallops, lush toro, pink yellowtail and tender eel.
Less traditional sushi dishes (“specialty sushi”) are creations of chef-owner Dante Boccuzzi, who also owns Dante, the eatery above. I loved his offbeat Eye of the Tiger, a tasty cut-roll involving Japanese mayo, shiitake mushrooms and raw scallops. You might like foie gras with duck and freshwater eel on a thick pad of rice. Sushi geeks will appreciate the marvelously seasoned rice kernels that undergird fatty fish such as the tuna, particularly when served nigiri style (the best way to enjoy sushi, if not ordering omakase).